Allen Meadows - Score: 93 (2016 April)

I hadn't tried this since 2006 and it continues to evolve glacially because even though it could be approached now, it is still improving. As is the usual hallmark of Bernard Dugat's wines even in cooler vintages like 1996, this is exceptionally ripe featuring a mix of primary and barely secondary spicy black pinot fruit aromas that are nuanced with hints of earth, crushed herbs and the classic gamy character of a fine Mazis. There is solid concentration and power to the intense full-bodied flavors that are a beautiful combination of muscle and detail, all wrapped in a still moderately structured, velvety and mouth coating finish. This is still on its way up but it is no longer so structured that it couldn't be enjoyed now if desired.